Thursday, April 12, 2012
Buena Sera! SB '12 Florence and Umbria
Sunday, April 8, 2012
Madrid and Toledo! March 30-April 1
After our crazy last night in Barcelona we took an 8am train from Barcelona to Madrid. Surprisingly enough, everything in Barcelona from the night before appeared to be cleaned up and all of the public transportation was once again running normally. I was a big fan of the train ride to Madrid. It was a high-speed train that was very nice, Clara and I had seats next to each other and set around a table with two other seats. After the train left Barcelona, we went to the restaurant car almost immediately because we were so hungry. We brought our croissants and coffee back to our seats and ate while we read and looked out the window. It was a very pretty train ride, we passed through mostly rolling farmland but also through some small canyons and desert-like landscape. And after only about 3 hours we had arrived in Madrid. It was such a fast, easy and comfortable way to travel.
The walk to the Prado was gorgeous. We decided that Madrid was very similar to Paris because it has many wide boulevards and very ornate buildings. It seemed like every other building was some sort of government building and all of them were a similar shade of white with heavy ornamentation. I was used to seeing buildings somewhat similar to them in Barcelona, but was not ready for the sheer number of these buildings. We also walked by a few traffic circles with incredible fountains in the middle. After some walking, we made it to the Prado. I expected the outside of the Prado to be nicer looking but was happy to see a small park around the front entrance filled with people lying in the sun and street performers playing music.
Inside, the Prado blew me away. I couldn’t believe the amount of paintings in the museum and was disappointed that we couldn’t spend all day there (guess I’ll have to go back!). We had a map of the museum and used it to see as many of the masterpieces as we could. I loved seeing the paintings of Velasquez, El Greco, Goya. We spent a couple hours wandering around looking at the artwork. I really loved seeing Goya’s 1st and 3rd of March paintings as well as some of his Black paintings. We were very hungry when we left the museum and decided to find a café to have some lunch. We ended up wandering into the El Retiro gardens, a huge garden in the middle of Madrid. There was a very large pond in the middle of the garden where people could rent rowboats and there was a big fountain on one side of it. At that point, I was pretty hungry and would have loved to grab lunch and spend the rest of the day lying in the sun in this park! We found an exit from the park and had lunch at a small café along Independence Circle. After lunch we walked down Calle Alcala past some more of the ornate buildings.
The Palace was just a few blocks away and was amazing to see. It reminded me a little bit of Buckingham Palace, although it wasn’t as well kept. There was a big square in front of the palace and, directly across from the palace, was a large, beautiful church. The two buildings and the square between them made for a beautiful, open space. We took some pictures there, sat for a few minutes on the church steps and then headed out to get a cup of coffee at a café (we were totally wiped out at this point!). After having coffee, we headed back to the hotel to get ready to go to dinner.
For dinner that night, we met up with my dad’s friend Antoine and his wife Elena. My dad worked with Antoine in Amsterdam and they hadn’t seen each other in 18 years. We met at a restaurant called Tartan, which was apparently one of the hottest restaurants in Madrid. The whole place had a plaid theme (hence the name Tartan!) and the meal was easily the best I’ve had in awhile. Elena was from Madrid so she ordered all of us some amazing tapas to share while we drank wine and my parents caught up with her and Antoine. Dinner and dessert was amazing as well, I understand why you have to call weeks in advance to get a table at that restaurant! We had a lot of fun that night meeting/catching up with Antoine and Elena and got back pretty late!
After the cathedral, we walked down the street to a smaller church that contained a painting by El Greco. El Greco focused many of his paintings on Toledo, so it was great to see on in its original church. After visiting that small church, we went to one of the synagogues in the city. The synagogue was my favorite building we saw in Toledo. I may have the order a little bit wrong, but I think the synagogue was built originally as a synagogue but over the years had been turned into a mosque and then turned into a church. I loved that the synagogue showed all three of Toledo’s religious influences in on building. It was beautiful!
We then left the sculptor’s house and went to a monastery and it’s adjoining church. The monastery had a gorgeous courtyard and was very ornately decorated. The church adjoined to it was equally as impressive and it was great to be able to take pictures in each of them. We then left the church and headed back out the city gates and towards the bus. It was a very fast trip to Toledo, but I’m so glad we went. The different religious influences were very interesting to see and the town was very pretty. We were exhausted by the time we got back on the bus and slept most of the way back to Madrid.
When we got back to Madrid, we were starving and set out to find some lunch. We had some salad and tapas at a café and then decided to walk down into the Latin district since we didn’t get there on Friday and Saturday afternoon was our last in Madrid. It was a nice walk down, although none of us loved the neighborhood. It was not like the rest of Madrid and we soon decided we wanted to get back to the big streets and ornate buildings. We walked back up toward our hotel and did some shopping on Gran Via. After shopping, it was getting late in the afternoon so we decided to head back to the hotel to pack before going to dinner.
to see more pictures from this trip go to: http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151486440835481.834572.588220480&type=3&l=60ebf55ae0
Barcelona with the Meeks! March 26-29
We got back to Barcelona that Monday (March 26th) just in time for me to make it to class while my parents and Clara went and returned the car and checked into our hotel there. After class I met them once again in Plaza Catalunya and we walked over to the hotel so I could drop of my stuff. We stayed in the Hotel Pulitzer, which was about half a block away from Plaza Catalunya and very conveniently located right in the middle of the city. We walked toward the cathedral and found a little café to have lunch outside. After lunch, we wandered around a little bit, I showed them parts of the medieval quarter of town, Plaza Reial and Las Ramblas. I had to get back to class for a bit that evening so I told them to walk down to Port Vell and then along the water and we agreed to meet up again at the hotel after I had class.
Seeing the inside of the Sagrada Familia for the second time was just as incredible as the first time I had been inside. We spend awhile inside the cathedral taking pictures and we took the elevator to the top and walked down the steps in one of the towers. We also went into a museum in the basement where many of Gaudi’s original models and his crypt were. I hadn’t been in that museum the first time I was in the cathedral so it was fun to see all of that. It was also really interesting to see Barcelona’s gothic cathedral and then the very non-traditional Sagrada Familia on the same day. We left the cathedral, grabbed some kebabs for lunch and then headed up to Park Guell.
Park Guell is one of my favorite places in Barcelona and I loved being there with my parents and Clara and showing them the views of the city and all of the Gaudi designs that are there. We walked through the park for a while and took lots of pictures. I’ve been to Park Guell quite a few times now but still manage to notice something new each time I go. That time, we found the house Gaudi lived in while designing the park and saw some of his wrought iron work that was displayed outside. I’ve got to apologize again, most of the pictures from us being in Barcelona are on my parent’s camera so I couldn’t post them here, but I’ll post what I’ve got! Anyways, we then left Park Guell, grabbed some beers from a café, and drank them on a very awkwardly slanted bench on the hill leading down from the park, and then head back to the hotel.
We hung out and read on the rooftop terrace before heading out to dinner. For dinner that night, I wanted to take my parents and Clara to Can Paixano, my favorite champagne and sandwiches restaurant. It turns out the restaurant doesn’t sell champagne by the bottle for dinner so we decided we’d go back for lunch and then headed out to find a place for dinner. We walked around down by Port Vell until we found a little restaurant on the water that looked allright. The restaurant wasn’t great and we all realized this around the same time after we ordered but we still had a good time eating down by the water. We had some questionable paella for dinner there and afterwards set off to walk back along the port and up Las Ramblas toward the hotel. It was a great after dinner walk and it was fun to see my parents and Clara take in how busy the city still was even around midnight on a Tuesday, definitely very different from most American cities!
After lunch we kept walking up the mountain to the Joan Miro museum. Miro was one of Catalonia’s most renowned modern artists and the museum was definitely interesting. I didn’t love a lot of the art (I guess modern art is just over my head) but the actual building was beautiful and the views it offered looking out over the city were spectacular. We walked around the museum for a little while and then decided to head over to take a gondola ride up to the castle on top of the mountain. Montjuic castle is another one of my favorite places in Barcelona and we spent a couple hours up there looking out over the city and the Mediterranean. We also spent a long time (this was actually mostly my dad) looking at the port and watching the freight ships being unloaded and watching the trucks and trains being loaded with freight to be shipped elsewhere. It was actually really cool to see! Then we took the gondola back down and took the metro back to our hotel.
When my mom and I got back to the hotel, the protest was getting huge. We had a view of Plaza Catalunya from the balcony in my parent’s room and immediately went out there to watch protesters gather in Plaza Catalunya. I had never seen protesting like that before and was amazed at the number of people gathered in the plaza and all of the noise they were making. After a while, the riot police around the plaza decided the protest had to end and began trying to get people to leave. This was met with some resistance from the protesters and then things really got crazy. The police began fighting the crowds out of the plaza using their batons and rubber balls fired from guns. The entire crowd took off running from the plaza and many of them ended up running down our street, right below our second floor balcony. We watched at the riot police formed a line and fired rubber balls into the crowd to keep them away from the plaza. In response, the crowd yelled and set trash on fire in the street. The police held their ground and eventually were able to get the protesters to back further down our street and around the corner. Watching all of this occur from our balcony was one an unbelievable experience and definitely not anything I thought I’d ever witness while in Spain. While watching the protests, we decided that leaving our building that night was a terrible idea so we had our usual bread, meat, cheese, and fruit and chocolate dinner on the rooftop terrace. We could still hear the protests occurring all around the city and could see the smoke from the fires protesters set in the streets. It was a very unusual way to spend our last night in Barcelona before heading to Madrid.